Big Muddy

Finally Westward bound!

We left Chattanooga a bit later than we wanted to, but felt relieved that we would soon enter the Central time zone and gain back that hour anyway.

Sadly due to cutting yesterday short we were forced to use the interstate for a bit. I am not sure anything is more soul-sucking than humming along on the highway. There is nothing to see, experience or absorb. Alas, we didn’t have much choice and put our heads down for a few hours.

We stopped for breakfast in a lovely little town somewhere in Tennessee. As we ate our eggs on the patio, Jay noticed a self-wash station across the street. Since the bikes were cooling down we figured it made sense to give them a quick one over. I have to admit, part of me was happy to see 1200 miles of dirt, tar and grime come off my new baby. However, part of me was upset that I even cared. The bike is meant to be ridden and get dirty, and all the imperfections I am picking up along the way are pushing me closer to a healthier relationship with this immaterial object.
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Hours later, and countless semis and inattentive drivers vanquished, we made it to Kentucky. Pitting for lunch, I consulted my GPS and determined that if we push it we can still make the ferry across the Mississippi. That seemed like the perfect way to cross the iconic river and something I have been really looking forward to knocking off the proverbial bucket list. This goal breathed new life into my day and helped give a reason for the monotonous slabbing that we were doing.

Wary of the fact that the last ferry out of Kentucky left at 6:15, I picked up the pace as we made our way to Hickman. After consulting with the locals, we finally made it to the dock at 5:50, just in time for the last ferry. Seeing the majestic river in person really transformed the trip for me. Prior I was having a great time and seeing new places, but it felt like a vacation that was destined to end. And yet when I saw those famous waters it began to feel like a real journey.
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We paid the $5 per bike and chugged along to the Missouri side. For the first time this entire trip, I didn’t have a real good sense of where we would be staying. I knew it had to be somewhere close for the roads we will be taking tomorrow, but it didn’t really matter where we slept for the night. After playing around in the abandoned fields (where Jay somehow managed to lose his left half fairing), we opted to race the sun towards Charleston, Missouri.

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Turns out Charleston is really a one restaurant/motel truck stop sort of a town, but it would have to do. I paid for the room and determined that my bike wouldn’t last the night outside, so she would just have to sleep with me.

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Since there was only one restaurant, we didn’t exactly have a ton of options. At least they had a fitting table for us!

 

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Tomorrow should be another fun one and hopefully the Ozarks present enough curves to help me forget the number of straight lines I traveled today.

Wetter than a typhoon

A picture tells a thousand words.

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Woke up this morning at 7:00 A.M. to Tigh packing his bags. Apparently a man needs to work, and he had a long day ahead of him to get back to NYC. As he was getting ready he mentioned that he wanted to boogie due to the incoming thunderstorm.

Thunderstorm? As in rain?! Oh hell no…

I whipped open the laptop and it turns out the boy doesn’t lie. Our beloved meteorologists were calling for thunderstorms to begin around noon and last throughout the day.

Today of all days it had to rain. I knew we would get rain on the trip, but why did it have to rain on our Deal’s Gap/Cherohala day? I would have taken any day but today. Sadly the Earth didn’t care about my first world problems and opened up the skies for us.

I consulted with Jay about our options, but honestly I hadn’t come this far to skip out on these famous roads. I rationalized that the rain wasn’t expected to come for another 5 hours, so if we hustled we could get out of the Smokey Mountains dry and tidy. We bid Tigh farewell and hit the road.

At about 9:15 A.M. we were reminded that meteorology is more of a soft science…

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Someone asked me about gear, so I will take this opportunity to outline what I brought.

Dainese Carvemaster Gore-tex jacket
Dainese Travelguard Gore-tex pants
Alpinestars New Land GTX Gore-tex boots
Held Air-n-Dry Gore-tex gloves
Forcefield back-protector (one I use for the track)
Kriega Hydro 3 (which Jay swears I put pedialyte in)
Kriega R20 and R10 for the tail.
Seido waterproof case Samsung Galaxy S4

Notice a trend with the gear? Lots of Gore-tex. I wanted to be prepared for rain and I couldn’t have been more pleased to have it today. I won’t rub it in for Jay too much, but one of us was considerably more soaked than the other.

As we made our way up Cherohala Skyway it really began to come down hard. It was about this time that I learned why they are called the Smokey Mountains. At the peak visibility was less than 15 feet.

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I put my bike in wet mode which jacks up the traction control and ABS and reduces the HP to a measly 100 ponies. I have never owned a bike before with traction control or ABS and while I have heard great things about it in the wet, I wasn’t about to test the merits of that claim in torrential rain, intense fog and on a winding mountain road with lack of guard rails. Instead of relying on technology, I opted for experience and a smooth right hand.

At the track I work a lot on body control and getting off the bike as much as possible to reduce lean angle. This is great at high speeds and will allow you to carry more corner speed. While I wasn’t going fast in these conditions, it still made sense to me to apply the same techniques. Considering how much oil, gravel and standing water was in the middle of these big sweeping turns, I decided to do everything in my power to keep the bike as upright as possible through that garbage. Last thing I wanted was a low side off the mountain. Fortunately not a soul was on the road to see my boy-racer-ass leaning off the bike like Marq Marquez at a molasses 40 MPH pace.

Silly or not, it seemed to work and I had absolutely no troubles through any of the turns. I am a big believer that racing makes you a better street rider, but that is a topic for another day. And is it possible that riding normally would have worked out the same? Entirely possible, but I would be happy to do it my way again.

I don’t have any regrets about seeing Cherohala under these conditions, but I am sad I could not see her in all her glory. It is a gorgeous road and the scenery is breathtaking. Maybe one day I can come back when it is sunny.

We snaked our way to Chattanooga, Tennessee where I am writing this entry today. At the end of the day we didn’t make a ton of miles, but the miles we did eat were plenty cold, wet and frightening. At least our bikes have a nice home in front of the hotel!

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Aside

Bughala

Another day and more bugs murdered.

 

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Today was a tale of two halves. The first half of the day was absolutely epic. Continuing our trend of no traffic whatsoever, we managed to go two hours on the Blue Ridge Parkway without seeing a single vehicle. And by that I mean in either lane. It got to the point where I thought something was wrong and perhaps we missed a sign stating the road was shutdown.

 

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The roads were immaculate, the scenery was outrageous and the day was shaping up spectacularly. I was beginning to appreciate how Blue Ridge Parkway has become such a legendary road in the USA.

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Unfortunately the second half was not nearly as exciting. We kept going on Blue Ridge Parkway to Asheville and eventually ran into people, cars and plenty of cops. Did I mention cops? Yeah, there was sufficient 5-0.

I haven’t said much about the bike yet, so perhaps I will segue with this tidbit. I am head over heels in love with her. She is nearly the perfect bike and has been a fantastic travel companion. I say nearly because the later part of the afternoon highlighted a bit of what I have qualms with. She wants open space and free road to explore, but the moment she gets stuck behind a minivan doing 26 mph, she gets temperamental. Temperamental is my nice way of saying that she becomes a god damn furnace and twitchy at low speed. That is ok though, it is just a reminder that I need to find the right road.

Following traffic can be tiring.

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We made it to our destination of Asheville, North Carolina by 6:30. After checking into the hotel we decided we wanted to see downtown and grab some dinner. Instead of riding we opted for a cab. The lady at the front desk gave us a number and it turned out to be the best decision we have made all trip. You pay a flat fee and are given a number for when you want your return trip. Our ride to the restaurant was an Infiniti FX35 and the driver was bumping Boyz II Men the entire trip. After our wonderful dinner we called for the ride back but were told the driver was busy, but not to worry, another person would pick us up. Turns out we upgraded. A stretch Caddy Fleetwood driven by Roosevelt by came to our rescue. Have no fear, there was a 32″ LCD inside that was blaring some R&B.

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The lady at the front desk swears it is the cheapest option around. Even if it wasn’t, the ride most certainly made our night.

Mountain Momma

Suspicion confirmed; drop dead gorgeous sceneries and out of this world backroad twisties are in fact better than the Turnpike.

Today was easily the best day of street riding in my entire life. We spent 260 miles on epic roads that snaked their way through valleys and mountains. To make life even better, I don’t think I saw more than 40 cars in the 9 hours of riding today. I can’t say whether it was because of Easter, or simply because we were in no man’s land, but it was without a doubt the ideal riding conditions. The sun was shining, the bugs were kamikazing onto my helmet and the bikes were singing. Discounting some gravel on the roads I can’t imagine a better day of riding.

My entire day looked like this:

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Like yesterday, we met up with some interesting people along the way. At one of the gas stops an older gentleman named Rich approached us. He was in his red Roadcrafter and came riding in on an older VFR750.

 

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Rich told us about this one particular route in West Virginia that we couldn’t miss out on. I think talking about the road got him excited and he ultimately decided to ride with us for a while. I am always happy to have someone show us the way, but I was not expecting a ton in terms of spirited riding (no offense Rich!). About five minutes into the ride I learned two things:

1.) This is the best public road for motorcycling I have ever been on.

2.) Even on far inferior technology, Rich is an infinitely better rider than me.

When we caught up with him we found out that he used to be an AMA racer and I promptly felt slightly better about myself. Jay let him take the Tuono out for a spin and I have a hunch that Rich still has a grin on his face!
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We had a lovely late lunch/early dinner in Bath, Virginia. Even convinced the owners to let us sit on the patio so we could look after our babies.

 

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The day ended in Blacksburg, Virginia. Tomorrow is Blue Ridge Parkway and if it is anything like today, we are in for another stellar day.
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How the hell you going to leave your frame at home?!

How the hell you going to leave yo frame at home?!

 

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Day 1 is complete and I am in beautiful West Virginia. I knew going in to today that this would be the most boring of the 16 days, and the interstate absolutely lived up to its reputation. The goal was to get out of the Tri-state area and to the base of the Appalachians, which would beautifully set us up for the rest of the trip. We managed to get 370 miles under our belt and are now holed up in Davis, West Virginia (population 650). Going forward we won’t be touching the interstate and should be dicing up some gorgeous backroads instead.

Although tucking on the interstate for hours on end is as boring as all hell, I still managed to have a great time today. My friend Tigh met up with us in Harrisburg, PA on his pretty 2001 Monster and will ride with us for the next day.

 

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While we were stretching our legs at a gas station this man named Victor sauntered over to us.

 

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He began to shoot the shit with us and dished out some compliments for Jay and Tigh’s rides. Then he noticed my 899 and said, “Ooh baby, you do you. I am not riding that thing”.

Jay told him that it is a frameless design which promptly kicked off a whole gang of expletives. He said, “How the hell you going to leave your frame at home?!”

It honestly became a 30 minute diatribe revolving around the idea that my bike is going to crumble if I ever drop it and how he always jumps off his Goldwing the moment a situation gets even remotely hairy. It was everything I wanted on my trip. I love the idea of meeting strangers in unexpected places and getting lectured by hilarious people.

Looking forward to a good night’s rest and 250 miles of sweet West Virginia twisties tomorrow.

Aside

Last night

My final night here in the Big Apple. In an attempt to get ready for my voyage, I decided to give my bike her first wash so that she can get properly filthy in the upcoming two weeks. Like I said earlier, motorcycles and logic don’t always go hand in hand.

 

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As Jay and I were washing the bikes, someone comes rolling by and slams on the brakes. He cranks down the window and asks, “how much was that”?

I look at Jay, and sheepishly reply, “about $15”.

He replies, “$15?! You bought that hose for $15? Where?”

Here I thought someone was admiring two of the sexiest bikes on the planet, and yet it turns out he just happens to really like coil action water hoses.

Tomorrow morning the trip begins. See you outside the Appalachian Highway!

Prologue

The day is here, and it is finally time for me to go home.

 

Background

Howdy -my name is Cameron and I am a Bay boy.
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I moved to NYC roughly seven years ago and have thoroughly enjoyed most everything NYC has to offer. That said,  I knew one day I would move back to California, and that time has come.

It has been a life long dream to ride across country, so I have decided to take two weeks off to move and I will be traversing the country on my new bike.

Riding Experience
Truth be told, I don’t really ride the street. I am a track rider and much prefer the safety of the racetrack. I am not particularly fast, but I do occasionally like getting my knee down…and elbow…and shoulder…and butt.
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Cross Country Whip

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I bought my 2014 899 Panigale in November. It subsequently sat at the dealer until March, and I have since put on 680 miles and performed the first service. I added a few goodies such as Termis, but I also have been working hard at making it long distance worthy. In that vein, I hardwired a USB cable to charge my phone (AKA my GPS), and I also replaced the steering stem to support a ram ball mount.

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For comfort I upgraded to the gel seat, and I bought an Airhawk in case it is ever extraordinarily bad. I also had to get very creative with my Kriega mounting points, but I am now able to mount the US20 and US10 to the rear.
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In regards to my all too common track experiences, I have decided to attach a spirit animal to my bike. Hopefully that wards off any issues!

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Why a Panigale?!
I can’t tell you how many people have called me a moron for choosing this bike as my touring rig. Honestly, I couldn’t imagine doing it on any other bike. There are countless more reliable and comfortable bikes I could have bought, but why would I want to do that? Motorcycling is inherently illogical, therefore I have decided to do this journey of a lifetime on the bike I lust after. Plus, this is going to be my next dedicated race bike, so I figure I will get acquainted with her the old fashioned way.

That aside, if anyone has an in with the Italian gods, do you mind calling in a favor for me and asking for 4000 miles of trouble free riding? Thanks!

La Ruta

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As many of you know, Google has a restriction on how many POIs you can use per map (thanks for that Google). So I have broken the route into 9 different files. I converted all of them to GPX and will be using Osmand as my GPS.

http://goo.gl/maps/McLF7

http://goo.gl/maps/0lhmm

http://goo.gl/maps/WzzCi

http://goo.gl/maps/s5mxA

http://goo.gl/maps/JV3sL

http://goo.gl/maps/Gb7Kc

http://goo.gl/maps/xXerw

http://goo.gl/maps/W21u4

http://goo.gl/maps/UqXNp

http://goo.gl/maps/Rzu7h

Schedule
The journey starts at 8:00 am on Saturday (4/19/2014). I hope to be back in the Bay Area by 5/4/2014. That leaves me about ~250 miles a day of riding, which should be a nice blend of soaking in the culture, appreciating the environment, and resting my sore body.

I will be staying in motels along the way, and would love to avoid riding at night. I also will have my DSLR and laptop and will be updating this thread daily!

Solo-bolo?

For nearly 6 months I planned on going solo, but a few weeks ago my friend caught wind of the trip and has decided to join on his brand new Aprilia Tuono V4R. I am excited to have a riding partner and someone to share this experience with.

Here is a little teaser of his bike!

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